Fall is the season of rotten things. I mean this from a practical perspective, not intending to besmirch the season. For the past month, I’ve measured time by the rotting process of crabapples. My home is surrounded by fruitful crabapple trees, which begin to shed their fruits in late August. When they first fall, the crabapples roll like small round stones on the sidewalks. With time, a fresh apple smell fills the air, reminding me that summer will not last forever. After a couple of weeks, the falling crabapples are softer, bruising from their fall to the hard ground below. The smell develops into one of fermenting, perhaps a bit more pervasive than the fresh one that preceded it. Finally, moving towards and past the autumnal equinox and into true fall, the crabapples form a sticky mush on the ground, the pungent smell of a crabapple vinegar soaking into the transitioning land. Every day, I contemplate the olfactory nuances of rot. Perhaps the presence of rotting crabapples skews my perception of the season, but I don’t think I’m entirely wrong.
It makes sense that the fall would be a time for rotting. In a seasonal climate such as the one we have in Colorado, generally speaking, spring is the time for fertilizing flowers, which eventually develop into fruit. Summer is the time for fruit to grow. Late summer and fall is the time for fruits to ripen. (I realize there are some fruits that ripen as early as late spring, but just go with me here.)
The process of fruit ripening involves several chemical processes that begin with an increase of ethylene. Pectinases begin the breakdown of cell walls, leading to a softening of fruit; amylases convert carbohydrates into simple sugars, leading to a sweet taste; and hydrolases destroy the green chlorophyll, resulting in the change of fruit color. The juiciness, sweetness, and color indicate to the hungry masses of creatures that roam this green earth, that the fruit is ripe and ready. In a story told over and over again by a bunch of perfectly ripened bananas that becomes overly brown, soft, odiferous, and good for nothing but baking in just a few days, there is a short distance from ripe to nearly rotten. Ripening is, in fact, the beginning of the rotting process, with cell walls breaking down and simple sugars becoming prime for digestion by the creatures that make fruit rot. This is the point where bears engorge themselves with fruit to tide them over the long winter months, and humans, when they are done with all the fresh fruit they can handle, make efforts to preserve them. (Once again, I realize that humans also find a source for whatever they want around the globe and get the fresh version throughout the winter months, but let’s put that aside for now and return to the process of preservation.) The last weekend in September, I had the opportunity to partake in a bit of fruit preservation, and it leaves me thinking about playing with time.
I went back to the Midwest, the region of the country where both sides of my family come from, partially in order to learn about canning from my aunt. On Saturday afternoon, my aunt and I dug into her most recent bushel of apples to make apple butter. She quartered apples twice as fast as I could remove the core. They piled up in a pot that would cook until they were soft and ready to become applesauce.The warmth and smell of baking apples mixed with the fresh breeze from the open door as we stirred the applebutter and prepared jars and lids for canning. My aunt gave me helpful pointers as she filled the jars and I placed lids and tightened rings on, before packing them into a boiling pot of water And finally, I fished the jars back out of the steaming baths and placed them on a clean towel to cool and create a tight seal.
It is my understanding that canning preserves food by killing microorganisms with high temperatures, enacting enzymes that assist in preservation, and creating a vacuum to exclude new air that would introduce more microorganisms. It captures a moment in time by destroying the organisms that move time and rotting forward. Change is how you know time is moving; without change I don’t know how to prove that time is moving. Rot is a measurement of time. My aunt and I halted a piece of change, brought the past into the present and made it possible for the present to exist into the future.
My grand mother’s farm was a place strongly rooted in the past, but was also a constant presence in my childhood. The cellar was lined with shelves covered in dusty jars filled with faded vegetables and fruits. The lid of each one had my grandmother’s handwriting, describing the contents and the month and year in which the jars were filled. By the time I was old enough to stare wonderingly at rows of mason jars, the preserved foods were far too old to be eaten. But still, I knew there was something I wanted to know more about, contained in those jars. On the farm, there was a small pond full of frogs for the cows to get water, there was a hayloft high up in a barn lit with sunlight sneaking in around the edges of dried old boards, there were stacks of U-shaped shoes left from generations of mules. I hold onto these memories tenderly.
I feel a need to defend my efforts to continue living pieces of the past. I know, the jars really just contained slimy old vegetables, nothing special at all. I don’t have any sort of thrilling background. From everything I’ve heard, my ancestors immigrated to the U.S. by sea and quietly came north from the Gulf of Mexico to settle in the rich farming lands of Illinois, where they worked hard to make a living on a farm, sent their kids to school for as long as it made sense, and went to church on Sundays. For some reason, I still want to maintain some sort of connection with this history. I think the flat farms of Illinois, interspersed with woods, are beautiful. At least nominally, I want to can fruits and vegetables in the way my grandmothers spent hours canning food to keep the family fed until the next harvest time. I garden to remember that apples, cherries, and plums grow on trees and that gooseberries are a delicious fruit that grows on branches covered in thorns, all facts my ancestors knew from birth. I take time to slow down in life, so I can recall the past. My trip to rural Illinois was an opportunity to connect with my background.
24 hours after canning the applebutter, my aunt and I wrapped each jar individually in bubble wrap and a ziplock back and packed them into a box to eventually take to the post office and send back to Boulder, CO. I realize that flying all the way to Illinois in order to prepare and preserve apples to then mail back to Colorado is not the most efficient way to do things. Amazon probably could have had just as many jars of apple butter to my home by the end of the day, if I’d gone online. I feel a need to defend how I spent my weekend. Most people might look around the room for something more interesting to get them out of our conversation, as I excitedly describe what I did and learned. I feel a bit sheepish as I try to justify my excitement.
All I can say to defend myself is that somehow, I find depth and meaning in connection to past generations. I want to think I could maybe live simultaneously in the present, past and future. The time I spent connecting with my aunt and my past exists a hundred years ago, over the weekend, into the present yet to come as I eat the apple butter, and I hope even further into the future. (Part of my adventures in farmland included a trip to Farm and Fleet, a bit of the Target to the agricultural world. We found a canning set on sale, and I plan to can at least a few jars every year going forward.) As I grow older, I can better see how time exists separate from clocks, built to move at one pace and in one direction. Canning fruit with my aunt was one more way to live in time out beyond space, pace, and direction.





